View Full Version : Intercooler now installed
overlordsshadow
02-05-2007, 01:23 PM
What boost would standard worm gear hose clamps be rated to? I've got exhaust pipe in for the straight parts and reinforced silicon bends. It's not making more than 10psi boost now. I've cranked the boost way up with the grainger but to no avail. I haven't yet boost leak tested it because I want to paint the pipes and needed to test her out. Also, where is best position for sound for the bov? Should I point it right at the ground? I'll be making a hood scoop soon so its basically gonna pop out of that. Sure sounds mean now, almost like a gun going off lol.
DodgeZ
02-05-2007, 01:25 PM
What boost would standard worm gear hose clamps be rated to? I've got exhaust pipe in for the straight parts and reinforced silicon bends. It's not making more than 10psi boost now. I've cranked the boost way up with the grainger but to no avail. I haven't yet boost leak tested it because I want to paint the pipes and needed to test her out. Also, where is best position for sound for the bov? Should I point it right at the ground? I'll be making a hood scoop soon so its basically gonna pop out of that. Sure sounds mean now, almost like a gun going off lol.
I've run over 20psi with cheap clamps. Doesn't matter where the BOV goes or where it points.
overlordsshadow
02-05-2007, 04:14 PM
Preload comes when I stretch the spring in the boost controller right? Also, my bov sounds like it is open while im trying to spool up, i've got the boost signal coming from the nipple on the tb and a restrictor in the line, whats up?
stampederunner
02-05-2007, 06:17 PM
On the BOV I have noticed that if you use too much line or too small of a diameter of hose it takes a while for the BOV to build enough pressure to stop the valve from opening. A good tip for getting cheap clamps to work is some hairspray. It helps the hoses slide over the pipe then once it dries it acts as an adhesive.
overlordsshadow
02-06-2007, 07:35 PM
If my 'cam' timing is out, do I just have to switch it a tooth or two and see if it gets better? Also, not sure if I have the timing set to 0 or 12 haha. Also what the heck is advanced timing and how does that help?
Force Fed Mopar
02-06-2007, 11:42 PM
Okay, first:
Check the cam timing and make sure it's right. Forget about trying advance or retard it right now, just make sure the marks are all set to factory specs.
If you suspect your BOV is leaking, remove it and cap off the hole for it and see how it boosts then. Do you have a good boost gauge?
Initial ignition timing should be set to 12 degrees, if you look at the timing hole in the trans, it's marked in degrees. Find the number 12 mark and mark it w/ a yellow or other bright color to make it easy to see. Rotate the engine over to TDC on #1 and mark the timing mark on the flywheel too.
overlordsshadow
02-07-2007, 09:08 AM
wtf is cam timing though? Just lining up the two marks so that they are parallel with the top of the cylinder head? Thanks for the other info though.
Force Fed Mopar
02-08-2007, 08:46 AM
Yeah, just install the cam as usual. I thought you were talking about adjusting the cam timing, that's why I mentioned it. You have the stock cam in it I suppose?
overlordsshadow
02-08-2007, 05:23 PM
Yes stock cam. But what I mean is what is the difference between cam timing and ignition timing but more importantly how can one be off and not the other??
Force Fed Mopar
02-09-2007, 08:46 AM
Cam timing is setting the cam ahead or behind the crank. Kinda like getting it a tooth off one way or the other, only not so much. Ignition timing is turning the distributor. That's why I say, if you set the cam to factory specs, it will be right and you won't have to worry about it.
bobr19
02-09-2007, 01:45 PM
www.iskycams.com/degreeing.php
overlordsshadow
02-10-2007, 02:22 AM
what are our stock bov's rated to?
Force Fed Mopar
02-10-2007, 03:51 PM
15-16 psi, maybe. Not much.
W.P._Turbocars
02-15-2007, 01:46 AM
My factory BOV went at just 12 PSI
2fast2dodge
02-21-2007, 06:40 PM
Cam timing is setting the cam ahead or behind the crank. Kinda like getting it a tooth off one way or the other, only not so much. Ignition timing is turning the distributor. That's why I say, if you set the cam to factory specs, it will be right and you won't have to worry about it.
Cam timing is when and where the valve train starts and stops opening and closing in relation to where the piston is in its travel measured in degrees of rotation from TDC. The ignition timing is when the spark is delivered to each cylinder again piston position, since our engines are belt driven and if the dist/ oil pump drive is not lined up, this will also be "off " if the belt jumps, cam and dist. drive are the same gear just flipped around cam has arrows that point at cam cap parting lines and small oval hole that should point "up", dist. drive has small slash mark that should point to crank sprocket and a straight edge should line both up when positioned straight across bolt centers.
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